Sarah Sokol
How did you become a hat lover?
Growing up, I would go to NYC Ballet productions and Broadway shows and loved seeing the costumes and headpieces. But it was attending Burning Man in 2013 that made me want to become a milliner. It ignited a flame of desire that still burns bright. I began to seek out costume parties and involved myself in the community, which became an outlet for me to be my true creative self. One day, I picked up a book called "Couture Hats." I saw costume headpieces similar to ones I had made and instantly realized that this was what I needed to do with my life. I signed up for a millinery course with Anya Caliendo and have been practicing my craft every day since then!
Describe your creative process, from start to finish. Any challenges along the way?
Oh man, so many challenges! Materials are one of the most inspiring things for me. I'll look at fabric, thermoplastic, metals, crystals, etc., and think, "How can I manipulate this to become a wearable sculptural headpiece?" When I'm working with new materials for the first time, my design might change as I become more familiar with it and figure out the best way to play with it. Other times, I'll have a design in mind, and it'll either come out perfectly, exactly how I imagined, or the design will evolve along the way into something else that's awesome.
What project has made you the proudest?
Two pieces come to mind. Janelle Monae's 2019 Met Gala hat tower and Billy Porter's Grammy's hat were truly some of the most exciting moments of my career so far. Billy's stylist, Sam Rattelle, told me Billy wants a hat with crystal fringe that can open and close, and I knew exactly where to go and what the design would be. I reached out to Smooth Technology, who worked on Janelle's Met Gala look, and they developed the mechanics for it. From design to testing the motor to doing the fittings, seeing everything come together was exhilarating, but especially the moment it was revealed on the red carpet. I must say, though, every hat I make is so unique. It's hard to pick just one!
Both the Janelle Monáe hat at the Met Gala and Billy Porter hat at the Grammy’s were firsts for me, so the experience that came with those put the cherry on top of my love for the actual hat. Nothing beats the excitement of getting someone ready for the Red Carpet.
Your standard of work reminds me of the GOATS Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy. How do you stay consistent, and what advice do you have for emerging hat makers looking to have a long-term impact in the hat industry?
Thank you very much for the compliment! A way for me to stay consistent is by finding a balance between having my personal style and drawing inspiration from other milliners. I look at the fabric's movement, the detail on the brim, the drape of a ribbon, the shape of the hat and find ways to express those new elements in my work. I've always found sculpture to be such a captivating form of art, and millinery is a facet of that. Manipulating materials is one of my primary sources of inspiration. Finding tiny details and making them the focal point of a hat is another way. I love hiding little surprises in larger pieces and leaving them for the wearer to discover.
The most important part of an artist's journey is finding their stylistic voice. Every day I think about finding a way to make people look at a hat and say, "Wow, I know who made that!"
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Due to the pandemic, there's been an increase in DIY projects. Do you think trends like this will contribute to keeping craftsmanship and the trade alive? And if not, what type of support would you like to see from other industries?
The pandemic has been a challenging and traumatic time for all of us. At one point, I started a YouTube channel of how to make crafty hats, headpieces, and hair accessories with everyday items. During the isolation, I felt that I needed to reach out and inspire people to express themselves. You don't have to be a milliner to make an incredible piece of art that sits on a head. However, learning how a milliner blocks, wires, and sews, and developing that unique artistic eye, is something you can only really know in person. In the meantime, a way that beginners can help keep the craft alive is to keep exercising their creative muscles and stay inspired! We're all part of the same creative community.
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