Toiling Yu “ ToiL” Handcrafted Hats
How did you become a hat lover?
I think my love of hats stems from my appreciation for vintage clothing.
I first fell in love with vintage clothing as a teenager. The epic cuts and the beauty of the fabrics amazed me. The critical concept of clothing from the past was to be sustainable, a concept that has sadly been lost. Items were beloved, not discarded; they were 'handed down' almost like a family heirloom. I love the idea of things that are 'built to last, especially with clothing. Vintage clothing has a past, a story to tell, and that story never ends.
This led me to my love of hats. Headwear is so synonymous with vintage fashion, from head to toe; the devil is all in the detail, and for me in particular, it’s the headwear that makes it. No other garment of clothing has the ability to transform a person's entire look and energy, quite like headwear.
We are so lucky to live in a time in which we can express ourselves through style, whether modern or vintage, and I find I can express myself most through my hats.
Headwear seems an essential part of your distinct style. How do you choose what hat to wear with an outfit?
My outfits generally reflect my mood on any given day. Some days I feel bold and want to express myself in a loud way, and other times I'm going for a more subdued look and energy. It's fair to say that the bold days involve ever wider brimmed hats, but with that, the outfit I put together will likely be subtler and more neutral in tone.
But there is no set template on how I dress, as I'm someone who loves to mix & match, and I generally don’t follow any “guidelines” on what works and what doesn’t. It’s always a feeling.
One thing is true, though, the more hats I have, the more choices I have.
You recently studied hat making at the Schola Academy in Florence. How was the experience & what key elements did you learn?
Travelling to Florence to study at Schola Academy with SuperDuper Hats was one of the best experiences in my life.
I'd been studying millinery for two years in the UK when I felt I hit a wall. I was beginning to get frustrated by my lack of development and so searched for somewhere that would challenge me and push me to that next level. That's when I discovered the course.
It was two months of intensive learning in which we covered everything from practical lessons in hat making (hand blocking, hand moulding, machine stitching etc.) to theory and business development.
Those two months were invaluable and really helped build my confidence as a hat maker and designer, as well as a new business owner.
What do you love most about making things with your hands?
I've been practising the art of Chinese calligraphy since I was around nine years old. The connection between hand, brush and paper has always fascinated me. It's a constant journey of discovery. I find that also applies to hat making. With each felt, each straw, each ribbon, I'm learning what is possible through close connection and, with that, how far I can go.
What advice did the talented folks at SuperDuper Hats pass on to you?
Before going, I had a lot of self-doubts, and I was very harsh on myself. Perfection is my happy place but also my enemy. I felt that I would never be ready to call myself a hat maker if my idea of “perfection” had not been achieved. And, of course, there is no perfection.
But one day, my teacher said to me, “Don’t be afraid of being READY, you are ready!”. That was the kick I needed. Those words helped me push aside all of my self-doubts and launch my own hat brand; ToiL.
What was the first hat you made, and what is your favourite hat so far?
I actually have two “first” hats that stand out in my memory; one from my millinery training days and one from hat making.
During my millinery training, I made an oversized fur felt top hat (think MadHatter). It stands out, as it was the first time I could see myself as a proper milliner.
The other hat was a straw cap that I made for the first time without any guidance. The sense of achievement I had and the happy tears that just burst out are something I will never forget. Both of these hats represent milestones in my journey, and for that will always be cherished.
Congratulations on the launch of your new headwear brand, Toil. What core values are essential to you, and how do you see the brand evolving?
At its core, ToiL is about handcraftsmanship, a real showcase of understanding and appreciation of this noble craft. It’s about combining the elegance of millinery with the seemingly straightforward boldness of hat making.
Hats will always be worth more than the sum of their parts to me, and I would like my hats to tell a story. And for those who wear my hats to be a part of that story.
The brand is in its infancy, but I foresee the constant evolution and development of unique and bold creative designs that will become a trademark of ‘ToiL’ style.
Describe your creative process, from start to finish.
I have a restless mind that’s always working. There is so much inspiration all around us that sometimes you have to remind yourself to focus on just one thing. And that’s a real challenge for me, absorbing the never-ending sources of inspiration that surrounds me whilst trying to channel my energy into a single concept at a time.
It’s important not to spread yourself too thin. Less is definitely more.
Each and every piece by ToiL is lovingly handcrafted; their silhouettes taking from uniquely designed hand carved wooden blocks.
Swiftly, the gazelle bounds through a constantly changing landscape;
its beauty, grace and form never diminishing.
“The highest reward for a person's toil is not what he gets for it, but what he becomes by it.
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